Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – hidden delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their children are reluctant to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to learn these stories and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
